Top Vertana

Scheda

Via: 

Normale

Segnavia: 

13, s.n.

Photo: 

The author on top of Cima Vertana

Tipologia Percorso: 

A/R

Periodo Consigliato: 

July - September

Tempo Complessivo: 

6h45'

Tempo di Salita: 

4h00'

Tempo di Discesa: 

2h45'

Esposizione: 

Sud

Quota di partenza: 

2348 m

Quota di Arrivo: 

3545 m

Dislivello: 

1197 m

Quota Massima: 

3545 m

Pericolo Oggettivo: 

Some points with ice, the track is not always well marked, the ground is very brittle and craggy.

Tratti Esposti: 

none

Acqua: 

Di fusione

Accesso: 

Leaving Bolzano on the National road nr. 38 in direction of Merano e the Venosta Valley, continue until arriving at Spondigna (Spondinig) where the road for Passo Stelvio (Stilfserjoch) has to be taken . When arrived at the villane of Gomagoi, take on the left the regional road which leads along 10 km to Solda (Sulden). Before arriving at the center of the main villane, take on the right a dirt track (indicators), cross on a bridge the river of Solda and continue to the place of starting of the Pulpito’s chair lift (Kanzellift). Use the chair lift to gain the head station where a refuge has been built.

Introduzione

The Cima Vertana is the most elevated in the minor group Vertana-Angelo, that is the important northern offshoot of the main range of the Ortles-Cevedale. It is a fantastic viewpoint(such as the next Angelo Grande - see excursion from the same authorAngelo Grande) less crowded than this last, especially for its access which is quite complex, the absence of supporting points and the challenge of finding the route which is conditioned by the continual changes in the big Rosim glacier, that, especially in these last years, becomes more and more uncovered and is cropping up on the track with danger of slippings.The signs end about at the height of 2850 m. so that it is necessary to deduce the pathway by observing the snow conditions which are very variable, and choose the best route according to these conditions. With a a poor visibility this ascent is definitely inadvisible.

Descrizione

Starting from the head station of the Pulpito's chair lift take the first very well routed footpath on the right (it is marked with the nr. 13) and enter in the Rosim valley in direction of a rocky slope (the "Crode di Rosim") and after a 20 minutes walk reach the very nice "Piano di Rosim", fully grassy and furrowed by a beautiful torrent, having in front the vision of the stunning homonymous
glacier tongue which is pitching down with a big seracs in the head of the valley. The footpath heads the glacier with a steeper slope, continues with some hairpins and scrambles with an intense and more and more bigger inclination to reach the level of the glacier on its left (looking). We are at an altitude of 2850 m. and the white/red marks interrupt approximately here, at the point where the ground start to become morainal and unstable, just in front of the immense iced basin. It is necessary to find the way bypassing points where the living ice emerges, keeping the left as much as possible pointing in the direction of the rocky spur (altitude 3385) which represent a sort of outpost to the southern side of Vertana top. The climb of this strecht (during it you'll have a marvellous view of the glacier) is very tiring and has to be done with extreme caution, by choosing the most solid points and gaining height following traces which go more and more to the left until you'll reach the top of the spur. From here the rest of the itinerary looks evident. The summit, marked with a very big cross, looks like a tringular rocky face made of debrises endorsed upon a base of broken metamorphic rocks. Proceed for some hundred meters just a little below the southeast ridge which slopes on the right of the top itself, and crossing some snowy point. Continuing in the debries some passing tracks are found: they drive to the terminal basin at the foot of the mentioned triangular face. From here it is necessary to go furtherly on the left in order to reach the Southwest ridge which is then followed (staying on its right hand) always among big debries to reach the top. The view is interesting and very wide on the Ortles-Cevedale and the Retich Alps. Particularly interesting and impressive is the view on the nearest Angelo Grande and, downwards, on the Zay valley going to the Serristori Refuge and the homonimous Pass.

Verso la fronte del Ghiacciaio

La grande colata del Ghacciaio di Rosim

Arrivo a livello della fronte

Camminando a fianco dei grandi crepacci

The top look like this immediately before reaching the summit of the spur

The last basin. The way to the top is on the left ridge

From the top: the nearest Angelo Grande (m. 3521)

The big cross on the top

From top: view of the Ortles and Gran Zebrù

Dalla vetta vista su Cevedale e Tresero - San Matteo

From top: view of Vinschgau and Reschenpass

From top view on Zay valley with Serristori Refuge