Bivouac Battaglione Monte Ortles

Scheda

Via: 

From Gavia Pass

Segnavia: 

42 then w.n.

Data del rilievo: 

10/07/2005

Foto di copertina: 

The author near the Bivouac

Tipologia Percorso: 

A/R

Difficoltà: 

E

Periodo Consigliato: 

Mid july to mid september

Tempo Complessivo: 

6h00'

Dislivello: 

681 m

Introduction

In the chain of the so called "13 tops" that, starting from the central crux of Mount Cevedale, represents the arch with suoth-west directionof the Ortler group, the San Matteo top (m.3694) stands out. This top exhibits a very beautiful North face falling on the big Glacier of Forni and a ridge, the Southwest exactly, called of Valleumbrina, and nearly 4 kilometers long being dotted from minor elevations, starting from Dosegù Pass, nearby our Bivouac. The side looking in direction of Gavia, looks instead as an elegant triangular face elevating on the vaste Dosegù glacier which forms a big serac fall over a harsh Walloon arriving not far away from the Refuge Berni, starting point of this ascent. The ascent route to the bivouac detaches from the normal of the San Matteo Top before arriving on the steep rocky slopes that lead to the flatter and less crevassed zone of Dosegù glacier. It developes with a signalized the path on screes and several shelves of debris among which some little lakes lie, then up to a smaller end wall where a track that winds back on its right goes up to the panoramic shelf where the Bivouac (which is no more than the rehabilitation of an old shack of war that was made very comfortable and welcoming) stands. All around the bivouac on the ridge of Valleumbrina are still many testimonies from the First World War: here also at altitudes higher than 3000 meters fightings took place always with uncertain outcome, however, Italians kept the positions (as was Adamello) also after the disastrous defeat of Caporetto in October 1917.