Bivouac Battaglione Monte Ortles

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Tue, 18/10/2011 - 18:41 — giocons

sottotitolo:

A panoramic balcony among the relics of the Great War

Autore

Autore:

Giovanni Consigli

Scheda

Via:

From Gavia Pass

Segnavia:

42 then w.n.

Data del rilievo:

10/07/2005

Foto di copertina:

The author near the Bivouac

Tipologia Percorso:

A/R

Difficoltà:

Impegno Fisico:

discreet

Periodo Consigliato:

Mid july to mid september

Tempo Complessivo:

6h00'

Tempo di Salita:

3h30'

Tempo di Discesa:

2h30'

Esposizione:

Sud-Est

Quota di partenza:

2541 m

Quota di Arrivo:

3120 m

Dislivello:

681 m

Quota Massima:

3120 m

Acqua:

fusion

Accesso:

Gavia Pass is reachable along the national road nr. 300 sia either from the Camonica valley (Pontedilegno) and from the Valtellina (from Bormio, through the Valfurva). The starting point of this excursion is the Refuge Berni della sezione di Brescia del CAI.

Introduction

In the chain of the so called "13 tops" that, starting from the central crux of Mount Cevedale, represents the arch with suoth-west directionof the Ortler group, the San Matteo top (m.3694) stands out. This top exhibits a very beautiful North face falling on the big Glacier of Forni and a ridge, the Southwest exactly, called of Valleumbrina, and nearly 4 kilometers long being dotted from minor elevations, starting from Dosegù Pass, nearby our Bivouac. The side looking in direction of Gavia, looks instead as an elegant triangular face elevating on the vaste Dosegù glacier which forms a big serac fall over a harsh Walloon arriving not far away from the Refuge Berni, starting point of this ascent. The ascent route to the bivouac detaches from the normal of the San Matteo Top before arriving on the steep rocky slopes that lead to the flatter and less crevassed zone of Dosegù glacier. It developes with a signalized the path on screes and several shelves of debris among which some little lakes lie, then up to a smaller end wall where a track that winds back on its right goes up to the panoramic shelf where the Bivouac (which is no more than the rehabilitation of an old shack of war that was made very comfortable and welcoming) stands. All around the bivouac on the ridge of Valleumbrina are still many testimonies from the First World War: here also at altitudes higher than 3000 meters fightings took place always with uncertain outcome, however, Italians kept the positions (as was Adamello) also after the disastrous defeat of Caporetto in October 1917.

Description

From Berni refuge cross the Gavia road and proceed to the ruins of the refuge Gavia, finding a path that surrounds it almost immediately (Tables Indicator) and then divides itself into various directions: left traces for the bivouac Seveso and ruined Refuge Bernasconi, right for the Sforzellina top. Our path, however (trail sign 42) runs between humps sheepskin with various curves and meanders in the direction of the great valley that faces the glacier Dosegù. This brings us to break into this valley at a very panoramic terrace from which you must descend (and thus losing about 110 meters in altitude) to reach the bottom and then travelling between rigolas and streams of gravel and then up the right side. To the bottom of the valley nearly 50 minutes of walk are needed. The path is well marked and is in common with the one which leads to the normal route of ascent to San Matteo top. Stay on the right side of the valley grade you start to climb up the valley towards the front of the glacier moraine terrain and yielding increasingly crossed by streams. Before the valley was reared in a steep climb that relies on the glacier, some indications lead us on the right track on a path that bends far to the south and back in the direction of another moraine cord that rises in the background (about half an hour from the bottom of the valley). This ridge is rising on the right along a track that rises first and then fold diagonally to the lower corner, trespasses it and moves into another valley where there is a pond and some small pool that resists until mid-season. A new up on the spur and here is a second short shelf where lies another lake. Behind the valley narrows and leads to the final basis of a smaller wall that supports the shelf where the cross near the Bivouac is already visible from below. There are some signs and we must be careful not to lose track. From the base of the wall on its left, instead of going ahead, as it would seem logical, cross to the right and take an aerial path between the some snow fields and boulders over the wall with exposed stretches and moves the peak in ridge with a steep climb on arduous terrain. It leads such a tiny gap to the right of bivouac, where the view opens suddenly to the south on groups of Adamello-Presanella and the Brenta Dolomites. The climb takes two hours from the junction abundant.
The bivouac, equipped and welcoming, always open, is located a few meters to the left of the numerous remains of war.
Return via the same route which requires two hours and a half high, but for the ascent of the first stroke to bring them back to the level of the Gavia street.

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