Tour of the three tops of Lavaredo
Introduction
This tour is perhaps the most "classic" among those effected by the usual frequenters of the Dolomites. It takes place in a spectacular landscape and allows you to "touch" the impressive Morth walls of the Lavaredo Peaks, full of mountaineering history with some of the most celebrated and difficult climbing routes plotted by climbers enrolled in the golden history of climbing. Just remember the epic climbs of Emilio Comici on the North of Cima Grande and those of Riccardo Cassin on Cima West in the '30s, the era of the then newly "invented" sixth grade, when Emilio Solleder, with his ascent to the north-western face of the Civetta, gave the start to a fruitful season of victories increasingly difficult and challenging.
The route proposed here departs from the customary signallized path (which also touches the Refuge Locatelli) to follow its own path trails at the base of the great northern walls. The immense and scree slope that forms the basis of these can be a challenging course, if still covered with snow as often happens early in the season. Just still a little warning not to take any risk.
Descrizione
From Rifuge Auronzo follow the road that goes in the direction of the Refuge Lavaredo and and of the Fork with the same name (see itinerary to Monte Paterno, from the same author) admiring the southern slopes of the Peaks. Just past a small chapel the road turns north, crosses the Lavaredo Refuge, located just below, and with a steep climb rises to the top of a slope (the called Fork Lavaredo) classical point of view of the Three Peaks, which are seen here, in their most daring amd exciting view. (1 hour) Neglected to the right signposted path which continues for Paterno and the Refuge Locatelli, we head towards the big wall down slightly without losing too much altitude along the path trails over rocky ground which are a little uncomfortable. The track goes right at the base of the Cima Piccola, presenting here his overhanging wall with the famous "Yellow Edge" and continue keeping at a distance of about 100 meters from the base of the walls. When you arrive at Cima Grande is worth making a detour and go right to the wall going up the rather steep scree. The feeling you get in contact with the rock is really indescribable: pinning yourself against the wall and looking towards one is struck by the boldness of the verticality of the rocks and cliffs that hang over his heads. You can even see the rivets of the most difficult climbing routes, first of all the Hasse-Brandler (direct route that goes right in the middle of the wall). Proceeding further on you arrive at the West Peak to which you can take a detour similar to that already done for the Cima Grande. The effect here is perhaps even more solemn. This is really indescribable in its complexity and beauty. It can be observed, under the impressive barrier of roofs and overhangs that characterize the vast slate of limestone, a large flaring bowl on which way were developed "drop of water" of the Cassin route (whose attack is quite right-most) and, instead, to the left, the attack on the very difficult path outlined by Desmaison and Mazeaud in 1959. On the corner of the west peak you can also pass from the attack dell'arditissimo "Edge of the Squirrels," then, is widening the view that the Crystal Group, it continues to find the marked path that comes from Refuge Locatelli. (2.30 hours) turn left and continue on this, with beautiful views of the Group of Cadini Misurina, Marmarole and farther, you continue to skirt the eastern side of the Three Peaks and then managed, in about half an hour, again at Auronzo Refuge.
Author
- Check all excursionism reports of Giovanni Consigli
- Check the page of Giovanni Consigli
Cartography
- Dolomiti di Sesto, Carta Topografica, foglio 010, 1:25000, Casa Editrice Tabacco, 2001
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