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Albert Frederick Mummery is a central figure in the history of mountaineering, known not only for his first ascents, but especially for the new approach he brought to mountain exploration. Born in Dover on 10 September 1855, Mummery is regarded as one of the pioneers of modern mountaineering, approaching the mountains with a philosophy that prioritised personal pleasure and individual challenge over the scientific or patriotic motivations that often accompanied mountaineering ventures of his time.
Mummery was a forerunner of 'sport mountaineering', where the challenge is to surpass oneself and explore new routes, even on summits that have already been climbed, without the aid of artificial means and without the aim of profit or fame. This approach was reflected in his vision of the mountain as a place of authenticity and freedom. His phrase 'impossible by fair means', left on a granite slab that was too smooth to be climbed freely during an attempt on the Dente del Gigante, is famous.
His mountaineering career began early, with a first attempt on the Matterhorn when he was only 16 years old, but it was in 1879 that he achieved one of his first significant feats, the ascent of the Zmutt ridge on the Matterhorn, together with the Swiss guide Alexander Burgener. From then on, Mummery collected a series of extraordinary ascents, including the Grand Charmoz and the Aiguille Verte (1880-1881), the Taschhorn (1887), and the Dych-Tau in the Caucasus (1888). From 1889, consistent with his thinking, he began to practice mountaineering without guides, proving that this approach did not compromise the quality of the exploits, but rather enhanced their value.
One of his most iconic exploits was the first traverse of the Grépon in 1892, an achievement that consolidated his reputation as an innovator and technician of climbing. Always faithful to his philosophy, in 1894 Mummery climbed the Brenva spur of Mont Blanc without a guide, marking another important chapter in the history of mountaineering.
In 1895, Mummery pushed beyond the Alps, organising an expedition to Nanga Parbat, the eight-thousand metre peak he considered most accessible. It was the first expedition in history to attempt an eight-thousander, tackled in an essential style that today we would call 'alpine'. However, the rudimentary conditions and technical difficulties were insurmountable: on 24 August 1895, while attempting a route on the Diamir side with two Gurkha porters, Mummery disappeared, probably swept away by an avalanche. His death marked the end of an era, but his spirit and ideas continued to influence generations of mountaineers.
Chronology of First Ascents
- 1879: Matterhorn, Zmutt Ridge.
- 1880: Traverse of the Col du Lion; Grand Charmoz. 1881: Aiguille Verte from the Charpoua Glacier; Aiguille du Grépon.
- 1887: Taschhorn from the Devil's Ridge.
- 1888: Dych-Tau, Caucasus.
- 1889: First traverse of the Schreckjoch.
- 1892: First traverse of the Grépon.
- 1893: Dent du Requin.
- 1894: Col des Courtes; Mont Blanc from Brenva (without guidebook). 1895: Attempt to Nanga Parbat (disappeared on August 24).