Marcus Schmuck

Marcus Schmuck (born 18 April 1925 in Maria Alm, and died on 21 August 2005 in Salzburg) was a alpinist austrian and leader of thela  Austrian expedition in Karakorum which on the 9th June 1957 first reached the summit of the Broad Peak (8051m). Ma...

Marcus Schmuck (born 18 April 1925 in Maria Alm, and died on 21 August 2005 in Salzburg) was a alpinist austrian and leader of thela  Austrian expedition in Karakorum which on the 9th June 1957 first reached the summit of the Broad Peak (8051m).
Marcus Schmuck was known from numerous first ascents of the highest mountains in the world. He directed 74 shipments in 56years, also at the age of 80 years, he was still active alpinist.
The Karakorum Austrian shipping deserves so special attention because the Broad Peak never a ottomila in style Western Alpine was scaled for the only time - without oxygen, without sherpa and without supplies basic field. All participants, plates Fritz Winter, Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger and shipping manager Marcus Schmuck reached the summit on the same day. Ten days later she succeeded jewellery and winter plate adjacent the first ascent of Skil Brum (7410 m) within a radius of 53 hours in pure alpine style.
Marcus Schmuck used until his death, his wife who lies in a vegetative state. He died in his home in Salzburg a heart attack.

first ascents:

•     1946 Nördlicher Mandlkopf, SW muro, V
•     1948 Wildalmkirchl, South intersection, V +
•     1949 Bank Meat, direct Ostkamin (fireplace jewelleryJewellery), VI 
•            Summer, Stone, Wailing Wall, 1 Winter's Climb
•     1953 Birnhorn, South wall, 1 Winterbgehung
•     1955 Snökuppelen, North Wall, IV
•            Falkenstein, crest, III
•            Westbyfijell, south wall, and III crest, II
•     1956 Petit Dru, western wall, in record time 1.5 days
•            Mitra direction North wall, VI +
•     1957 Broad Peak 8047m 9 June
•            Skil Brum 7360m 19 June
•     1959 Hoggar Denachnet 2690m, East Ridge
•     1963 Koh I Sayoz 6920m
•            Koh I Shogordok 6855m
•     1965 Darban Zom 7220m
•             Wildalmkirchl, Südverschneidung
•     1982 Musthag Ata 7546m, 3.Begehung new route

Marcus Schmuck (born 18 April 1925 in Maria Alm, and died on 21 August 2005 in Salzburg) was an alpinist Austrian and leader ofthe Austrian expedition to Karakorum which on 9 June 1957 first reached the summit of Broad Peak (8051m)i.
Marcus Schmuck has been known from numerous first ascents of the highest mountains in the world. He has directed 74 expeditions in 56 years, even at the age of 80 years, he was still active alpinist.
The Karakorum Austrian expedition deserves thus special attention because the Broad Peak never a ottomila in style Alpine West has been scaled for the only time - without oxygen, without sherpa and without supplies basic field. All participants, plates Fritz Winter, Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diem Berger and shipment manager Marcus Schmuck reached the summit the same day. Ten days later the first ascent jewellery and winter plate adjacent the first ascent of Skil Brum (7410 m) within 53 hours in pure alpine style.
Marcus Schmuck used until his death, his wife who lies in a vegetative state. He died in his home in Salzburg a heart attack.

first ascents:

•      1946 Nördlicher Mandlkopf, SW muro, V
•      1948 Wildalmkirchl, South Section, V +
•      1949 Bank Meat, directly Ostkamin ( Jewellery), VI 
•            Summer, Stone, Wailing Wall, 1 winter climb
•      1953 Birnhorn, south wall, 1 Winterbgehung
•      1955 Snökuppelen, North Wall, IV
•            Falkenstein, crest, III
•            Westbyfijell, south wall, e III crest, II
•      1956 Petit Dru, West Wall, in record time 1.5 days
•            Mitra direct North wall, VI +
•      1957 Broad Peak 8047m 9 June
•            Skil Brum 7360m 19 June
•      1959 Hoggar Denachnet 2690m, East Ridge
•     1963 Koh I Sayoz 6920m
•            Koh I Shogordok 6855m
•      1965 Darban Zom 7220m
•        Wildalmkirchl, Südverschneidung
•      1982 Musthag Ata 7546m, 3.Begehung new route