Edited by:
redazione
Walter Bonatti
(Bergamo, 1930 - Rome, 2011)
1949
-27-29 June: Croz dell'Altissimo (2339 m, Brenta Dolomites), south face, Oppio route (height difference 850 m, development 1000 m, VI- and A2), first repeat, with Josve Aiazzi and Andrea Oggioni
-22-23 July: Pizzo Badile (3308 m, Masino-Bregaglia), north-west face, Bramani-Castiglioni route (650 m, V+), second repeat, with Camillo Barzaghi.
-13-14 August: Aiguille Noire de Peutérey (3773m, Mont Blanc), west face, Ratti-Vitali route (650m, V+ and A2), second repeat, with Andrea Oggioni and Emilio Villa.
-17-19 August: Grandes Jorasses (4206 m, Mont Blanc), north face, Walker Spur, Cassin-Esposito-Tizzoni route (1200 m, VI and A1), fifth repeat, with Andrea Oggioni, Mario Bianchi and Emilio Villa.
-6 September: Punta di Campiglio Orientale (2969 m, Brenta Dolomites), south face, direct route Cinquantenario Cai Monza (700 m, VI, with 40 pitons), first ascent, with Josve Aiazzi and Andrea Oggioni (route leader).
-Torrione Magnaghi Meridionale (2040 m, Grignetta), west face, via Clara (140 m, VI- and A1 or 6c), first ascent, with Camillo Barzaghi.
-Torrione Magnaghi Meridionale (2040 m, Grignetta), north-west face, via Marinella (140 m, VI+), probably first repeat, with Camillo Barzaghi.
-Torrione Magnaghi Centrale (2045 m, Grignetta), south face, route Ruchìn (100 m, VI and A2), first repeat, with Andrea Oggioni and Josve Aiazzi.
-Corno del Nibbio Settentrionale (1368 m, Grignetta), east-north-east face, Antonio Sant'Elia route (artificial, today two lengths respectively 7a and 6b+), probable first repeat (with variant), with Andrea Oggioni and Josve Aiazzi.
1950
-30 June to 2 July: Pizzo Cengalo (3367 m, Masino-Bregaglia), north-west pillar, Gaiser-Lehmann route (1100 m, V+), second repeat, with Prassitele Sala.
-6-7 August: Punta Sant'Anna or Badilet (3171 m, Masino-Bregaglia), north corner (600 m, VI- and artificial), first ascent, with Piero Nava.
-18 September: Corna di Medale (1029 m, San Martino coast, Grigne), south face (190 m, VI- and A0 or 6a), first ascent, with Carlo Casati.
-Ago Teresita (1860 m, Grignetta), west face (70 m, V+), first ascent, with Carlo Casati.
-Guglia Angelina (1853 m, Grignetta), direct final variation (40 m, prob. V and VI) to Mary on the east face, with unidentified companion.
1951
-20-23 July: Grand Capucin (3838 m, Mont Blanc), east face (400 m, V+ and A2), first ascent, with Luciano Ghigo.
1952
-17 July: Grandes Jorasses (4206 m, Mont Blanc), south face of Punta Young (3996 m; 500 m, VI and A1, with 30 pitons, in 11 hours from the attack), first ascent, with Enrico Peyronel.
-28 August: Tofana di Rozes (3225 m, Tofane group, Dolomites), south-west spur of the south face, Via della Tridentina (600 m of which 200 m shoulder climb, VI-, with 10 pitons, in 5 hours), first ascent, with Pietro Contini.
-Torre Costanza (1723 m, Grignetta), south-west face (270 m, V+ and A3), first ascent, with Gaetano Maggioni.
1953
-22-24 February: Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (2973 m, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites), north face, Cassin route (550 m, VI+ and A1), first winter ascent (twentieth repeat), with Carlo Mauri.
-20-21 March: Matterhorn (4478 m), Furggen ridge (1100 m), winter first with direct final variation (V+ and A2), with Roberto Bignami.
-24 May: Punta Fiorelli (2391 m, Masino-Bregaglia), north-west face (400 m, V+ and A1, including 35 pitons), first ascent, with Roberto Bignami.
-7 June: Picco Luigi Amedeo (2800 m, Masino-Bregaglia), south-south-west face (300 m, V and A1, including 25 pitons), first ascent, with Roberto Bignami.
-21 June: Monte di Zocca (3175 m, Masino-Bregaglia), north-eastern edge of the Torrione Est (250 m, VI), first ascent, with Roberto Bignami.
-28 June: Punta Walter Paganini (2790 m, Masino-Bregaglia), west face (300 m, V, with 25 pitons), first ascent, with P. Sacchi.
1954
-18 November: Torre Bignami (3285 m, Presanella), first ascent (south-east face, 400 m, IV, with 8 pitons), with G. Cunaccia, Clemente Maffei and E. Violi. The first climbers dedicated the summit to Roberto Bignami, Bonatti's companion on several occasions (see above) and who perished on Mount Api, in Nepal. NOTE: on the west face of the same tower there is also a great route, from 1956, by Andrea Oggioni and Josve Aiazzi.
1957
-1-3 August: Grand Pilier d'Angle (4243 m, Mont Blanc), east face and north-east spur (900 m, VI and A1, ED), first ascent, with Toni Gobbi.
1959
-5-6 July: Mont Blanc (4807 m), Brouillard Red Pillar (only the pillar: 400 m, V+ and A2), first ascent, with Andrea Oggioni
-6-7 August: Mont Maudit (4468 m, Mont Blanc), south-east central buttress (750 m, IV and V, TD-, with 50 pitons), first ascent, with Andrea Oggioni and Roberto Gallieni.
-19 June: Petit Greuvetta (3230 m, Mont Blanc), west face (650 m, V), first ascent, with Bruno Ferrario and Andrea Oggioni.
-13 September: Mont Blanc (4807 m), Brenva side, Via Major (1300 m, TD- with IV+ passages), first solo (at the same time as the first solo ascent of the nearby Via della Pera by Carlo Mauri).
-19 September: Mont Blanc (4807 m), Brenva side, east gully between the spur and the Col de la Brenva, route Frendo-Roch-Sarthou (1250 m, D/D+), first repeat, with I. Guargaglia.
-20 September: Mont Maudit (4468 m, Mont Blanc), east spur of the south-west shoulder, Via Giannina (700 m, D+ with V passages), first ascent, with Bruno Ferrario and Andrea Oggioni.
-Mont Maudit (4468 m, Mont Blanc), south-east face, Cretier route (750 m, D+), second repeat, with an unidentified companion.
1960
-26 June: Petit Mont Blanc (3424 m, Mont Blanc), north-east couloir (1000 m, AD+), first ascent, with Giuseppe Catellino.
-3-4 August: Chandelle (3610 m, Mont Blanc), south-east face (220 m, VI- and A2), first ascent, with Roberto Gallieni.
1962
-10-11 July: Petites Jorasses (3649 m, Mont Blanc), east face, Friendship Route (500 m, VI+, A3 and mixed, dedicated to the friends who died exactly one year earlier during the attempt on the Central Frêney Pylon), first ascent, with Pierre Mazeaud.
1961
-9 March: Mont Blanc (4807 m), Brenva side, Via della Sentinella Rossa (1300 m, D+), first winter ascent, with Gigi Panei.
-March 28: Col de la Brenva (4309 m, Mont Blanc), from Brenva via the south-east face (700 m, 50° and steeper climbs, D-), first solo, ascent and descent.
-July: Mont Maudit (4468 m, Mont Blanc), by the south-eastern spur to the north-eastern shoulder, Kagami route (650 m, D+ with IV steps and difficult exit on ice), first repeat, with an unidentified companion.
-22 September: Mont Blanc (4807m), Frêney face, direct route to the right of the pylons (850m, TD), first ascent, with Cosimo Zappelli.
1962
-22-23 June: Grand Pilier d'Angle (4243 m, Mont Blanc), north face (750 m, ED-), first ascent, with Cosimo Zappelli.
1963
-25-30 January: Grandes Jorasses (4206 m, Mont Blanc), north face, Walker Spur, Cassin-Esposito-Tizzoni route (1200 m, VI and A1), first winter ascent, with Cosimo Zappelli.
-28-29 July: Eiger (3970 m, Bernese Oberland), north face, Heckmair route, first solo ascent attempt.
-25-26 August: Punta Innominata (3730 m, Mont Blanc), spur and east face (300 m, V+, TD), first ascent, with Cosimo Zappelli.
-18 September: Trident (3639 m, Mont Blanc), south-west face (180 m, VI- and A3, with 70 pitons and 25 wedges), first ascent, with Cosimo Zappelli.
-11-12 October: Grand Pilier d'Angle (4243 m, Mont Blanc, south-east face (450 m, TD+), first ascent, with Cosimo Zappelli.
-Mont Maudit (4468 m, Mont Blanc), south-east face, Cretier route (750 m, D+), third repeat, with an unidentified companion.
1964
-30 July: Trident (3639 m, Mont Blanc), north face, first ascent, with Livio Stuffer
-6-9 August: Grandes Jorasses (4206 m, Mont Blanc), north face, ribs of Whymper Peak (4184 m; 1100 m, VI, A3 and 80°, ED+ for the 1979 Guide Vallot; VI, M5+ and 90° or VI+, A2, M6 and 90° according to modern repeaters), first ascent, with Michel Vaucher.
1965
-19-22 February: Matterhorn (4478 m), north face, direct route (1200 m, ED+), first ascent and winter solo (after an attempt made a few days earlier with Gigi Panei and Alberto Tassotti).
?
-Resegone (1875 m), bastionata, Via Bonatti (90 m, V+ and A1), first ascent, with an unidentified companion.