Face of Vallanta

Access

Access to the Viso di Vallanta is mainly from the Vallanta refuge (2,450 m), easily reached from the Valante plans by means of a marked path, or from the Quintino Sella refuge at Monviso (2,640 m). Both support points allow for good logistics for ascents, both day and traverse. From the base of the refuges, one generally follows the route towards the Colle di Vallanta (2,818 m) and ascends the scree slopes in the direction of the south face, where the main ascent routes branch off.

Introduction

The Viso di Vallanta, also known as Dado di Viso or Dado di Vallanta, represents one of the most significant peaks of alpine interest in the Monviso group, in the Cottian Alps, western Piedmont. Positioned to the south-west of Monviso's main pyramid, Viso di Vallanta rises to an altitude of 3,781 metres and is distinguished by its monolithic morphology, which has earned it the nickname 'dice'. The peak is located in a distinctly high-altitude environment, characterised by impressive rock faces and a landscape context dominated by the great classics of the Po and Varaita valleys, offering a unique setting for high-altitude botany and significant geomorphological phenomena such as moraines and historical glacial basins.

Description

The Viso di Vallanta acquires historical importance for its first documented ascent, which took place on 7 September 1891 by Claudio Perotti, Giuseppe Perotti, Paolo Gastaldi and Vittorio Giordana. The feat was part of the 19th-century exploration of the great walls of the Monviso group, a period in which the conquest of secondary peaks was a testing ground for mountaineering techniques and a constant search for new itineraries. The summit's mountaineering history was enriched, in the following decades, by numerous ascents, some of which are among the outstanding feats of Piedmontese and French mountaineering, such as the opening of the Via della Fessura on the south face (difficulty grade ED) and the first winter ascents, which consolidated the summit's reputation as a technical laboratory in a severe environment.
Gographically, the peak dominates the Vallanta valley to the south and the Chiaretto lake valley to the north, overlooking the heads of the Po, Varaita and Guil valleys. The surrounding territory is modelled by metamorphic and sedimentary rocks typical of the Monviso complex, with the presence of scree and dolomitic layers that determine the variety of the terrain along the different routes. The climate, influenced by western currents, is particularly harsh, with persistent snow conditions until late spring and frequent temperature swings in summer, making the climbs more challenging in the event of instability.
The toponym 'Viso di Vallanta' originated as a descriptive name linked both to its position overlooking the valley of the same name and to the square shape of the peak, which recalls the dice in local tradition. The mountain is the protagonist of some legends from Occitan communities, according to which its silhouette inspired tales of giants and snow spirits, while in literary circles it is mentioned in collections dedicated to Piedmontese Alpine mythology. The importance of the peak is also reflected in the local hiking traditions, which make it a privileged destination for the first rock climbing experiences, as testified by the diaries of the first climbers.
The alpine routes that allow one to reach the summit are numerous and differentiated by degree of difficulty and type of terrain. Among the best-known are the Normal Route from the South Face (AD), the Chiappero-Perotti-Valbusa Route (AD+), the Coolidge Route (AD), the Fissura Route (ED), the Montaldo Spigolo (D), the French Route (AD+), the Gran Diedro Route on the South-West Face (TD-), the South-West Ridge (AD+) the West Face (AD+), the North-West Ridge (AD+), the North Face (AD), the North-East Ridge (AD+), the Via degli Astigiani (D), the Colatoio Est (TD), the Via Passet-Racca on the East Face (AD+), the Via Gallo on the East Face (D+), and the South-East Ridge (AD+). Difficulties range from AD (fairly difficult) to ED (extremely difficult), with planned developments on both compact rock and mixed sections, and itineraries specifically suited to experienced mountaineers and equipped for progression in a high mountain environment

Accessible routes

• Normal route, south face - difficulty (AD)
• Via Chiappero-Perotti-Valbusa, south face - difficulty (AD+)
• Via Coolidge, south face - difficulty (AD)
• Via della Fessura, south face - difficulty (ED)
• Spigolo Montaldo, south face - difficulty (D)
• Via dei Francesi south face - difficulty (AD+)
• Via del Gran Diedro, south-west face - difficulty (TD-)
• South-west ridge - difficulty (AD+)
• West ridge - difficulty (AD+)
• North-west ridge - difficulty (AD+)
• North-east ridge - difficulty (AD+)
• Via degli Astigiani - difficulty (D)
• East ridge - difficulty (TD)
• Via Passet-Racca east face - difficulty (AD+)
• Via Gallo, east face - difficulty (D+)
• Southeast Ridge, difficulty (AD+)

Information

Tot: 3781m
Alternative name:Dado di Viso, Dado di Vallanta
Mountain group:Monviso Group
First ascent: 07/09/1891
First ascention: Claudio Perotti, Giuseppe Perotti, Paolo Gastaldi, Vittorio Giordana