Dent d'Herens
Edited by:
Massimo Martini
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Introduction
A stupendous 4000-metre peak, unjustly overshadowed by the presence of its big sister, the Gran Becca, at such a short distance, of which, in my opinion, it only has to envy the almost three hundred metres more in height, the Dent d'HĂ©rens is practically invisible in its splendour from any town in the Aosta Valley. Not even from Breuil-Cervinia, the eye is drawn to this mountain, connected to Cervino by a splendid and difficult ridge.
.Description
Totally different is the Swiss north face, an impressive vertical drop of more than 1,000 metres; and the view one can enjoy of the west face by ascending the nearby TĂȘte de Valpelline. It is precisely the Italian side that offers the easiest, but certainly not the safest, ascent route: the normal route runs along the south face after a long approach on a very tormented glacier, and climbs steep slopes that should absolutely be avoided in hot weather and in seasons when they are not snow-covered. The ascent of the splendid west ridge is a completely different matter, a climb that is not excessively difficult but never banal: safe, with good rock, always airy and exposed, and in some sections chilling, especially if climbed with crampons when snowy. Don't hesitate to also climb it on the descent as an alternative to the dangerous normal route!!! A stupendous 4000 metres, unjustly overshadowed by the presence of its big sister, the Gran Becca, at such a short distance, of which, in my opinion, it only has to envy the almost three hundred metres more in height, the Dent d'HĂ©rens is practically invisible in its splendour from any town in Valle d'Aosta. Not even from Breuil-Cervinia, the eye is drawn to this mountain, connected to Cervino by a splendid and difficult ridge. The Swiss north slope, an impressive vertical drop of over 1,000 metres, is quite another matter; and the view of the west slope can be enjoyed by climbing to the nearby TĂȘte de Valpelline. It is precisely the Italian side that offers the easiest, but certainly not the safest, ascent route: the normal route runs along the south face after a long approach on a very tormented glacier, and climbs steep slopes that should absolutely be avoided in hot weather and in seasons when they are not snow-covered. The ascent of the splendid west ridge is a completely different matter, a climb that is not excessively difficult but never banal: safe, with good rock, always aerial and exposed, and in some sections chilling, especially if climbed with crampons when snowy. Don't hesitate to also take it downhill as an alternative to the dangerous normal route!!
Information
Highlight: 4175m
Alternative Name: -
Mountain Group:
First Ascension:
First Ascension in Winter:
First Ascension in Winter: